June 6, 2025
A Journey of 800 Meters and Unexpected Connections
The alarm went off at 6:15 AM, pulling us from our beds for what would become an unforgettable first day on the Camino de Santiago. The morning sendoff at our hostel in St-Jean-Peid-de-Port was touching—volunteers spoke about leaving everything behind, about family and possessions waiting safely at home, and about keeping your mind focused on just one thing: the Camino!
Finding Our Way
Leaving St. Jean proved slightly confusing at first. There were no yellow arrows on the path nor a group of other pilgrims to follow. Which path do we take? Thankfully, I had downloaded the Gronze app, which pointed us in the right direction. Soon enough, we started spotting other walkers, a reassuring sign that we were on the right track.
The landscape unfolded before us like a painting—beautiful countryside dotted with farms and freshly tilled soil. Though most of the hike stayed in shade, we were already sweating. Perhaps because nearly the entire route climbed steadily uphill. Our packs felt heavy on our backs, but slowly, slowly, we were adjusting.
The Hiking Pole Dilemma
Almost everyone we passed carried hiking poles, so we decided to invest in some ourselves. The hostel owner had sage advice: “Try one stick first. See if you like it. You can always buy a second one in another town.” Forty-five minutes into our journey, we hadn’t needed them yet, but they felt reassuring nonetheless.
The Valley Opens Up
In the far distance, mountains rose up, covered in impossibly rich green grass. We passed whitewashed farmhouses with red-trimmed windows, their simple beauty striking against the landscape. At one point, we spotted three donkeys grazing lazily on a hillside—something funny and unique you don’t typically see on a daily basis.
Our first café stop came with a bonus: a 360-degree viewpoint at the top that offered a gorgeous panorama of the entire valley. But the beauty came with a price. The walk grew steep quickly, forcing us to take frequent breaks. During one rest, we snacked on brie and baguette before tackling a dirt path that climbed straight uphill through seemingly endless switchbacks.
At the bottom of this section stood a grove of trees planted during medieval pilgrim times—a reminder that countless others have walked this very path for centuries.
Meeting Fellow Pilgrims
Along the way, we met a man from the Netherlands who had just had a child. His reason for walking the Camino? To quit smoking. “Words of wisdom,” he said with a smile, “the kid was unplanned. Most things in life are unplanned.”
Orisson: Our Oasis
The arrival at Refuge Orisson took us by surprise—it was tucked around a corner, hidden until the last moment. But what a sight when we found it! Amazing outdoor seating beckoned, perfect for post-hike drinks. I ordered a half-liter of beer for €5, Ashley got sangria, and we settled in on a bench with an American girl from Chicago and a guy from Croatia.
The Croatian was a character—he’d learned Spanish entirely from watching Mexican reality TV shows! He enthusiastically shared his story: he’d left his previous job after getting injured at an automotive factory and was heading to Germany next, though he didn’t yet know which city. His energy was infectious. What impressed us the most was his plan to continue walking for another 3 hours to reach the next town.
From the terrace, the view and the weather was absolutely spectacular. Bright green hills and mountains stretched into the distance, with houses scattered across the landscape like confetti. After our hard climb—from 90 meters to 800 meters elevation—that cold beer and sangria tasted like heaven.
Small World Moments
We checked into our room, which offered a wonderful view of the valley, then tackled our laundry. A funny coincidence: two ladies from South Korea whom we’d first seen at the train, then the bus, then throughout the hike, ended up staying in the room right next door to us!
The afternoon brought a moment of panic when Ashley thought our hostel reservation in Roncesvalles was booked for July instead of June. My phone wouldn’t work to call and check. The Orisson hostel staff saved the day, explaining that Spain uses day/month format, not month/day—we were fine! They helped us call to confirm anyway, and to celebrate our relief, we treated ourselves to a liter of delicious Basque beer.
Dinner: The Heart of the Camino
At 6:30 PM, we gathered for family-style dinner. The meal itself was wonderful—pumpkin soup, a pork dish, and pie for dessert—but the real highlight was the company and conversations with fellow pilgrims. We sat beside French couple and across from two American friends originally from Missouri, now living in Naples. The French husband had walked the Camino once before, alone, and this time brought his wife along, though they planned to do only sections rather than the full route.
The pumpkin soup was my favorite course, but the best part of the evening came at the end. Each person held a spoon like a microphone and shared their name, where they were from, and why they were walking the Camino.
Two stories stood out: A son from New York who had walked the Camino before and wanted his father to experience something spiritually uplifting alongside him this time. And a family from California whose mother had simply declared to the husband and two kids, “We’re doing this trip”—and here they were.
Good wine flowed with the meal, and the whole evening wrapped up around 8 o’clock, leaving us full of food, wine, and new friendships.
Laundry Lessons
A practical note to end on: we learned that cold weather and wet laundry don’t mix well on the Camino. Our clothes hung on the line were nowhere near dry, so we tried a 30-minute dryer cycle. They came out just as wet. Back on the clothesline they went, with fingers crossed they’d be dry by morning.
Elevation gain: 90m to 800m
Distance: St. Jean Pied de Port to Refuge Orisson
Hiking time: Approximately 5 hours
