June 15, 2025 : Los Arcos to Viana

The Knights Templar, a Living Christ, and the Simple Pleasures of a Plaza

We were ready to go at 7 AM. After taking a peek at the breakfast offerings—which looked pretty sad—we decided to skip it and move on.

It was an amazingly cool and crisp morning, perfect hiking weather. The kind of morning that makes you grateful to be alive and walking through this beautiful world.

The Surprise of Torres del Río

We came through the town of Sansol, which didn’t seem to have any cafés, so we kept walking. Then, all of a sudden, there it was: the amazing sight of Torres del Río, with its church of the Knights Templar.

We first stopped at a café for some amazing cappuccino and split a sandwich. They also had great bathroom facilities—never underestimate the importance of this on the Camino!

Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro: A Portal to the Past

Then we entered the church—Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro. For only one euro entry fee, you got your stamp inside. But what we found was priceless.

The most amazing thing was the sculpture of Jesus. This was the most detailed sculpture I’d ever seen. The eyes were so lifelike, almost as if they were going to open any moment and look right at you.

It was also tremendous that something from the 13th century was preserved so well. This became my favorite part of the church—and the trip so far—looking at this Jesus statue.

The interior of the cathedral was very simple, which gave it a mystical feeling. You could imagine the Knights Templar meeting here to discuss their sacred duties and hold their secret councils. The amazing dome and crisscrossing pillars added to the mystique.

Standing there in that octagonal space, I felt the weight of centuries. The Templars walked here. Pilgrims have been walking through this door for 800 years. And now here we were.

Through Olive Groves and Shrines

We proceeded to walk down and passed through groves of olive trees, vineyards, wheat fields, and small shrines that people had made for folks they’d lost in their lives or for those walking the Camino. These roadside memorials—each one a story, a loss, a hope—dotted our path like sand on a beachl.

Meeting Jacob and the Swiss Student

We came across Jacob, the 19-year-old from California taking a gap year and traveling everywhere. He asked us questions about how we were able to quit our jobs and about some of our favorite trips. His curiosity and openness was refreshing.

We also met up with a person from Switzerland who, after one year of college studying economics, wasn’t sure it was the right career. He was taking this walk to figure things out.

I love this about the Camino—it draws people at crossroads. Nineteen-year-olds trying to figure out what to do with their lives. Sixty-year-olds trying to figure out what they’ve already done with theirs. All of us walking the same path, asking the same fundamental questions.

Viana: An Unexpected Gem

We arrived in the town where we’d be spending the night—Viana. We decided to check into the municipal albergue. It had crowded, metal bunk beds, unfortunately, but the showers were amazing and the place looked and felt way nicer than our stay in Lorca.

After showering, we went out for a bite to eat—some amazing pintxos, cider, and beer. We checked out the ruins of the monastery and the overlook of the whole city.

We also ran into Michele, the lady from Illinois near St. Louis—the one who’d had to restart her journey after her niece passed away. She talked about her plans and what she’d seen during the day. It was good to see her still walking, still moving forward despite her grief. She mentioned she had shipped her jacket ahead, like most others, and now had to pay the consequences of being chilly. We were thankful for our 20 lbs packs that contained everything we could possibly need. 

A Cool, Shaded Respite

It was a nice, cool, and shaded day. We were so happy it wasn’t anywhere near as hot as yesterday. We checked out the monastery ruins and the splendid views of the mountains.

Then we walked around the town and spent a couple of hours just sitting in the plaza, watching kids play soccer and ride their bikes around. Sometimes the best moments on the Camino have nothing to do with churches or history—they’re just about being present, watching life unfold in a Spanish town square.

The laughter of children. The thwack of a soccer ball. The ring of bicycle bells. The slow settling of evening light.

This is pilgrimage too.

Dinner with New Friends

When dinner time came, a couple from Virginia invited us to join them. We had meatballs and another dish, sharing a great bottle of red wine. They told us they have two kids and lived in NYC for seven years. They love camping and the outdoors.

More strangers becoming friends over shared food and wine. More stories exchanged, more connections made.

Reflection on Day 10

As I settled into my bunk that night, I thought about the Jesus statue in Torres del Río. Those eyes that seemed about to open. That gaze that seemed to follow you.

What was it about that sculpture that moved me so much?

Maybe it was the humanity of it. The artist didn’t carve a distant, ethereal Christ. He carved a man—suffering, yes, but profoundly, recognizably human. A man whose eyes might open and look at you with compassion and understanding.

After ten days of walking, watching pilgrims carry their burdens and their hopes, their grief and their joy, I understand why that image resonated. We’re all very human on this path. Very much alive. Very much in need of that compassionate gaze.

Tomorrow we walk on. But tonight, in this cool evening in Viana, with the sounds of children playing soccer drifting through the window, all is well.

Distance: Approximately 20 kilometers
Walking time: 5-6 hours
Weather: Cool and crisp—perfect
Highlight: The 13th-century sculpture of Christ
Simple pleasure: Watching kids play soccer in the plaza