June 19, 2025 : Nájera to Santo Domingo.
Fields, Flowers, Rain, and Resurrection Chickens
We got up a little later than we had originally planned, but we were still out of the hostel by 7:00 a.m. The morning was cool, crisp, and perfect for walking.
We soon started climbing uphill, and when we reached the top, we were rewarded with a beautiful sunrise over Nájera.
It was one of those moments that made getting up early completely worthwhile.
And the views didn’t stop there.
Fields as Far as We Could See
For most of the day, the scenery was spectacular.
We walked through enormous wheat fields and endless stretches of green farmland. Everywhere we looked, there seemed to be another field, another hill, or another mountain.
And the mountains were everywhere.
360 degrees of mountains.
It felt like we were walking through a giant natural amphitheater.
The Camino was also surprisingly quiet. Ashley had expected to see many more pilgrims in June, but we could hardly see anyone ahead of us or behind us.
It was actually a little bizarre.
We kept wondering, Where is everybody?
Not that we were complaining.
Having all of this scenery practically to ourselves was pretty special.
Eventually, we reached the next town and stopped for our usual Camino breakfast: tortilla, orange juice, and coffee.
At this point, we’ve developed a pretty reliable system.
Walk.
Eat tortilla.
Drink coffee and/or orange juice.
Walk some more.
Repeat.
Poppies and Empty Trails
Back on the trail, we continued through the countryside, passing fields filled with wildflowers.
Bright red poppies were everywhere, mixed in with other colorful flowers.
The combination of green fields, red flowers, blue sky, and distant mountains made this one of the most beautiful stretches of the Camino so far.
It was also one of those days when the photographs really couldn’t capture how expansive everything felt.
The landscape just kept going.
And going.
And going.
When 81° Feels Like 100°
By noon, the temperature was supposedly around 81°F.
It felt like 100°.
Maybe it was the lack of shade. Maybe it was the miles we’d already walked. Maybe the Camino has its own special way of making temperatures feel much hotter than they actually are.
Whatever the reason, we were getting hot.
Fortunately, we found the perfect place for a break under a tree, with a stream nearby.
We sat in the shade, rested, and enjoyed the cool air.
At this point, we had learned that finding shade on the Camino isn’t something you take for granted.
You find shade?
You stop.
No further questions.
The Storm
We took a few more breaks as we continued toward Santo Domingo.
Eventually, we could see the town approaching.
The final stretch was a long, straight gravel path leading toward the town.
We checked into the municipal albergue, which cost €13 each, took showers, did some laundry, and stretched our tired legs.
Then we headed out looking for lunch.
Unfortunately, we ran into our old nemesis:
The Spanish siesta.
Everything seemed to be closed.
Since there was also a storm brewing, we decided to split up. Ashley went back to the albergue to bring the laundry inside, while I headed to the supermarket to pick up some snacks.
It seemed like a perfectly reasonable plan.
Until about 15 minutes later.
A massive rainstorm suddenly hit.
I found myself stuck outside waiting for Ashley to come rescue me with an umbrella.
Fortunately, the storm passed almost as quickly as it had arrived and just in time for Ashley to arrive at the store. She said that she had to walk through rivers of water to get to the supermarket.
We eventually made it back to the albergue and settled in with a much more enjoyable afternoon snack: local cheese, baguette, red wine, olives, and the sweetest watermelon we’d ever tasted.
After the heat and sudden downpour, sitting there eating cheese and drinking cold beer pretty close to perfection.
The Cathedral, the Rooster, and One Very Strange Legend
Later, we headed out to see the cathedral, famous for its rooster and hen.
And, as we quickly learned, there’s a rather unusual story behind them.
According to the legend, a German family was making the pilgrimage to Santiago. When they reached Santo Domingo, a local girl became interested in their 18-year-old son.
He politely rejected her advances.
Apparently, she didn’t take rejection particularly well.
She planted a silver cup in his belongings and accused him of stealing it.
The young man was found guilty and hanged.
His parents, devastated, continued on to Santiago and prayed for their son. On their return, they stopped in Santo Domingo to visit his body.
Except there was a happy discovery waiting for them.
He was still alive.
And still hanging from the rope.
At this point, I have to admit I had some questions.
How did his parents not notice this before leaving town?
But apparently, we’re not supposed to get too caught up in the details of medieval miracle stories.
In some versions, the young man tells his parents that Saint James has been keeping him alive.
So they rush to the sheriff and demand that their son be released.
The sheriff, who happens to be sitting down to a hearty poultry dinner, laughs at them.
He supposedly tells them that their son is no more alive than the chickens on his plate.
And then comes the miracle.
The roasted chickens suddenly sprout feathers and beaks, get up, and start walking around the table.
At that point, the sheriff realizes he may have made a slight miscalculation.
The young German is released, pardoned, and eventually goes home.
Hence the famous rooster and hen at the cathedral.
It’s a great story.
And, as with many Camino legends, probably best enjoyed without asking too many follow-up questions.
Climbing the Clock Tower
After seeing the cathedral and the elaborate Santo Domingo tomb, I climbed the stairs to the clock tower.
The climb was worth it.
At the top, I had spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside.
Mountains stretched in every direction, with the green fields we’d spent the day walking through spread out below.
It was a great way to appreciate just how far we’d traveled that day.
Pintxos With the Locals
For dinner, we decided to venture outside the old town and find somewhere where the locals were eating.
That turned out to be a good decision.
We found a lively spot, grabbed a couple of beers, and ordered three pintxos:
- Goat cheese
- Eggplant
- Chicken
After a long day of walking, it didn’t take much to make us happy.
Good food.
Cold beer.
A comfortable evening.
And no more rain.
We headed back to the albergue afterward, ready to call it a night.
The air had finally cooled down nicely, and we were hoping it would translate into a good night’s sleep.
After a day that started with a sunrise over Nájera, took us through endless wheat fields and wildflowers, nearly roasted us in the afternoon heat, soaked us in a sudden thunderstorm, and ended with resurrected chickens and 360-degree mountain views, we were more than ready for bed.
Another Camino day complete.
⭐ Day Highlights
Distance: Approximately 21 km
Walking Time: About 6–7 hours, including breaks
Weather: Cool and crisp in the morning, very hot by midday, followed by a sudden afternoon rainstorm ☀️🌧️
Highlight: The spectacular scenery—endless green and wheat fields, wildflowers, and mountains in every direction.
Simple Pleasure: Sitting under a shady tree with a cool stream nearby after getting overheated on the trail.
Best View: The 360-degree panorama from the Santo Domingo clock tower. Mountains in every direction.
Wildlife Highlight: The Camino’s famous rooster and hen—and, according to legend, their rather dramatic resurrection story. 🐓
Food Highlight: Local cheese, baguette, olives, and the sweetest watermelon ever after the rainstorm.
Funniest Moment: Getting caught in a massive rainstorm while separated, with Ashley back at the albergue and me waiting for an umbrella rescue.
Camino Achievement: Making it through the heat, hills, and unexpected storm and still having enough energy to climb a clock tower.
Tomorrow: Another day on the Camino—and hopefully fewer weather surprises.
Camino Lesson: When you find shade, stop immediately. You don’t know when the next tree is coming.
