June 21, 2025 : Grañón to Belorado.
Balloons, Arepas, and a Camino Swimming Pool
After our surprisingly memorable night in Grañón, we were back on the Camino by 7:00 a.m. The morning started much like most others: packs on, shoes tied, and feet already wondering why we keep doing this.
As we climbed out of Grañón, we got one last beautiful view back toward the town, with the sun rising behind it. But then something unusual appeared in the sky.
Hot Air Balloons. Lots of balloons.
Not one or two. Hundreds of them seemed to be floating across the sky, adding a little unexpected magic to an otherwise ordinary Camino morning. It was one of those scenes that made you stop for a moment and appreciate where you were.
A Quiet Walk Through Quiet Towns
The walk itself wasn’t particularly spectacular today. We passed through several sleepy little villages where absolutely nothing seemed to be open. No cafés, no shops, no bustling plazas — just quiet streets and the occasional person who looked like they had been awake long enough to realize we were walking past.
Fortunately, today was only about 15 kilometers, so there was no need to push ourselves.
We took our time, stopping under shady trees whenever we found a good spot. After the previous day’s long and emotional experience in Grañón, a shorter, slower day was exactly what we needed.
Eventually, we reached a town before Belorado and found what turned out to be one of the best food discoveries of the day.
Arepas to the Rescue
We came across a little place selling arepas and empanadas, and they looked too good to pass up.
We ordered some of each, along with a side of hot salsa, and split an Aquarius — Spain’s answer to Powerade.
The food was fantastic.
There was also a rather strange-looking stripper pole surrounded by mirrors inside the restaurant.
We had absolutely no idea what that was about.
Maybe it was part of the décor. Maybe it had a completely innocent purpose. Or maybe there was a very different kind of nightlife happening here after the pilgrims went to bed.
We decided not to ask.
Meeting the Civil Guard
Not long afterward, we came across a Civil Guard bus and ended up stopping to take some photos with the officers.
They were friendly and good sports about the whole thing, and we even got our Pilgrim Passport stamped.
It’s funny how something as simple as getting another stamp starts to feel like an accomplishment after you’ve been collecting them day after day.
By around 12:30 p.m., we reached Belorado.
And almost immediately, we noticed something different about the town.
There were advertisements everywhere for hotels and accommodations with swimming pools.
That seemed like a pretty good sign.
Belorado clearly wasn’t just a place for tired pilgrims to sleep. It felt like a destination where people actually came for vacation. And after spending the last several days walking, sweating, and sleeping in various degrees of pilgrim accommodation, we were more than happy to embrace the vacation vibe.
We also noticed some really cool Camino-themed graffiti throughout town. It gave Belorado a little more personality than some of the sleepy villages we’d passed through earlier.
Lemonade, Wine, and the Best Hostel Amenity Ever
Since check-in wasn’t until 1:00, we found a place to sit down and have a drink.
I had lemonade and wine — a combination that sounded a little strange but turned out to be surprisingly refreshing.
Then it was finally time to check in.
And there it was.
A swimming pool.
At this point in the Camino, a swimming pool might as well have been a five-star spa.
We quickly did our laundry, changed into our swimsuits, and headed straight for the pool.
The water was cool and refreshing, and there was grass surrounding the pool with plenty of lounge chairs. We settled in with our drinks and spent some time doing something we hadn’t been doing nearly enough:
Absolutely nothing.
It was glorious.
Afterward, we changed, relaxed some more, and did a little shopping to prepare for tomorrow’s longer walking day.
Pizza on the Plaza
By dinner time, we were beginning to suffer from a little Spanish-food fatigue.
Don’t get me wrong — we’ve been eating very well.
But after several days of essentially the same rotation of Spanish dishes, we were ready for a change.
So we headed into the main square and found a buzzing restaurant packed with locals. We grabbed a table outside under the awning and ordered something completely revolutionary.
Pizza.
And to make sure we stayed culturally adventurous, we also ordered two Kalimotxos — red wine mixed with cola.
Nothing says Camino de Santiago quite like following several days of Spanish cuisine with pizza and wine-and-Coke drink.
But honestly, the pizza was fantastic.
Sometimes the best meal isn’t the most authentic one. Sometimes it’s just the one that breaks up the monotony.
For dessert, we stopped at a local shop and picked up rice pudding with milk and cinnamon. We took it back to the hostel and enjoyed it there.
Tomorrow was going to be a longer day, so there wasn’t much debate about the evening’s final activity.
Bed.
Our alarm was set for 5:15 a.m.
The Camino waits for no one — especially not sleepy pilgrims.
⭐ Day Highlights
Distance: 15 km
Walking Time: Around 4–5 hours with breaks
Weather: Warm and pleasant, with plenty of opportunities to escape into the shade
Highlight: Arriving at a hostel with a swimming pool
Best Surprise: Hundreds of balloons floating across the morning sky
Simple Pleasure: Lounging beside the pool with a cold drink
Food Highlight: Arepas and empanadas with hot salsa
Funniest Moment: Trying to figure out why an arepa restaurant had a mirrored stripper pole
Camino Achievement: Another 15 km completed without rushing
Tomorrow: Up at 5:15 a.m. for a much longer walking day
Camino Lesson: Sometimes the best Camino day isn’t the one with the most spectacular scenery. Sometimes it’s the one with a swimming pool, good food, and nowhere you need to be.
