June 8, 2025
Monks, Dragon’s Teeth, and the Kindness of Strangers
The day began not with an alarm clock, but with the ethereal sound of monks singing through the monastery speakers. At 6:00 AM, the lights came on, and we rose to join the ancient rhythm of pilgrims who had walked this path for centuries.
We quickly got ready for the day and went in search of food. We had been advised that the pre-arranged breakfast wasn’t worth it, but we soon realized there was nothing else around. Good thing we’d saved some bread from last night’s dinner. Combined with chocolate and a cappuccino, it made for a perfect makeshift breakfast.
A Historic Start
Right outside the monastery, we stopped at the Iglesia de Santiago (Church of Santiago) where pilgrims have been stopping for centuries as they either start or continue their journey onwards to Santiago. It felt like the perfect send-off as we began our longest day of the Camino yet.
A little bit further from Iglesia de Santiago, we came across the famous distance marker declaring that we were a mere 790 KM from Santiago De Compostella. Almost there 🙂
The morning walk started in the woods before transitioning to the sidewalk alongside a busy road—not the most romantic stretch of the Camino, but practical nonetheless.
Espinal: A Delicious Pause
We reached the town of Espinal and treated ourselves to an amazing snack: fresh orange juice with strawberries and a Spanish tortilla. We were super excited to taste our very first slice of tortilla and little did we know how just how much tortilla eating we would be doing for the next couple of months. This one, at seven euros, was a bit pricey, but both the juice and the tortilla tasted absolutely delicious—worth every cent.
From there, the trail led us through canopy forest, alternating between slightly muddy paths and rocky terrain. We passed through several small towns, each with its own quiet charm.
The Dragon Café
Our next break came at the Dragon Café, where we enjoyed a nice cold dark lager—appropriately named Dragon—and another slice of potato tortilla. Both were delicious and filling, and we savored the rest break.
Around us, English language filled the air. We were surrounded by pilgrims from Great Britain, Ireland, and the United States. The Camino was starting to feel like a truly international gathering.
Through the Woods
For much of the day, our views consisted of the trail stretching ahead through wooded forest. Many times, we felt like we could be hiking anywhere in the U.S. The familiar feeling was both comforting and slightly surreal—we’d traveled so far to walk through woods that looked like home.
Like the scenery, we were also starting to see familiar faces. We walked with Lawrence and Erik, the couple from Leon we’d been seeing since Orisson. The trail was creating its own community, bringing the same faces together again and again.
Ashley mentioned that her toes were starting to hurt. She’d need to check them tonight. For me, this was definitely the longest walk of the trip so far, and I could feel it. The last two or three kilometers before reaching Zubiri proved especially tough—my calves were aching, my shoulders burning from the pack’s weight, but we had to push through the discomfort.
Dragon’s Teeth
The final three kilometers presented a new challenge: the trail became entirely rocky, and at times it looked like tectonic plates—”dragon’s teeth”—sticking up from the earth.
I’d read somewhere that pilgrims often get complacent as they approach town and end up twisting their ankles because they’re not watching where they step. With that warning in mind, we were extra careful, watching every foot placement on the way down.
Both of us agreed that this rocky descent through the notoriously steep and rugged terrain was far more technical than yesterday’s descent from the summit to Roncesvalles. Each step required concentration and care, and we were grateful that we were still young and agile. Part way down the trail, we encountered an 80 year old that needed our help more than once. She had a determined spirit, and even though we never saw her again, I’m positive she made it all the way to Santiago.
A Generous Gift
In one of the small towns we passed through, something lovely happened. Locals enjoying their lunch noticed I was a pilgrim and offered me the gift of bread. These small acts of kindness from strangers—that’s the spirit of the Camino.
Zubiri and Unfortunate News
When we finally reached Zubiri, the Susia Hostel was a short walk away where we settled in with our fellow pilgrims, swapped stories, and shared news. One sad piece of news was that one of the Japanese ladies we’d met at Orisson had fallen and fractured her shoulder. And the big guy from Maryland and his friend had apparently decided to skip ahead and drive the Japanese lady to a hospital in Pamplona. Injuries and changes of plan—reminders that the Camino doesn’t go smoothly for everyone and to be thankful for every day of walking.
Dinner with New Friends
One of the main reasons we booked our hostel was because of the wonderful communal dinners. Unfortunately, we learned that the host had been in a cooking accident a week ago and suffered bad burns, so she couldn’t cook for us. Instead, she recommended a nearby restaurant.
Following our host’s recommendation, we went to a nearby restaurant with Dan, Diva, and Ven from Hawaii—the family we’d met at dinner in Orisson. The conversation flowed as easily as the wine. Stories ranged from the Milford Track hike in New Zealand to the Cotswold Way in the UK. Dan had a fascinating job working on submarines. They didn’t even have flights booked home yet—they were planning to travel more after reaching Santiago. That kind of freedom felt inspiring.
For dinner, I had salad, a lamb dish, and flan. Ashley’s dessert was peach. She was hoping for a fresh ripe peach, but we are almost certain it was canned peach in syrup. My lamb dish, however, was absolutely delicious. For drinks, I ordered a lager mixed with lemonade—a surprisingly refreshing combination that I’d never tried before, and Ashley had a glass of red wine. The whole meal came to 35 euros.
After the fact, we found out that it was Dan and Diva’s wedding anniversary! One day we will make it to Hawaii, and buy them a long overdue drink to celebrate.
Evening Reflections
Back at the hostel, we chatted with Dan over San Miguel beers and local wine. Our feet were tired, our bodies sore, but our spirits were high.
Tomorrow would bring new challenges, new towns, and new stories. But tonight, we’d rest with the satisfaction of having conquered our longest day yet—dragon’s teeth and all.
Note: As of 2026, we learned that the Dragon’s Teeth have indeed been “pulled” and maintenance has smoothed out most of the section and even created a whole new parallel section that goes through the woods. While this is great as it’ll surely prevent injuries, we still have mixed feelings as the challenge that the dragon’s teeth presented will be missed by many.
Distance: Approximately 22 kilometers
Walking time: 7-8 hours
Terrain: Forest paths, roadside walking, rocky descents
Lesson learned: Watch your step all the way to town
