June 11, 2025, Day 6 on the Camino: Pamplona to Puente la Reina

Wind Farms, Wanderers, and Weighty Conversations

The weather forecast called for scorching heat, so we set out at 6:30 AM—our earliest start yet. We stopped at a café along the way, sitting outside to enjoy tortilla and orange juice while a cute little cat entertained us from a nearby table. It was a cool and refreshing morning, the best time to be walking.

Sidewalks and Wind Turbines

We walked mostly on sidewalks at first, which was a little hard on the knees. I was trying out my new pair of hiking poles—now we each had a complete set. Gradually, we transitioned from pavement to actual trail.

The morning was already getting hot, but the climb was slow and gradual. Looking back, we could see the city of Pamplona spreading out behind us. Looking forward: wind turbine farms dotting the landscape, their massive blades slowly turning in the morning air.

The walk to the top was scenic but exposed with very little shade. When we reached the summit, we were rewarded with an awesome metal sculpture depicting pilgrims throughout history: shepherds, people riding donkeys, and travelers with staff. The Spanish inscription on the monument read: “When wind and stars merge and lead the way.”

Meeting Mike: A True Wanderer

At the top, we were delighted to again meet Mike, who, if you have been following along our posts, was traveling with his friend Bud. He told us about the Japanese lady who’d fallen and broken her shoulder—the one we’d heard about days ago. Mike had helped her get a taxi to Pamplona. Unfortunately, she didn’t have any travel health insurance and thus chose to fly back home to Japan. We were glad that we had purchased global health insurance for scenarios just like that. 

Mike himself was having foot issues, so he and Bud had agreed to just walk at their own pace without pressuring each other to keep up. As we talked, Mike’s story unfolded: he used to teach English in South America, has been to every single state in Mexico, and currently teaches English in Saudi Arabia.

From the simple raggedy backpack that Mike was carrying and a carefree attitude, we wouldn’t have expected by looking at Mike that he’d traveled so extensively. But the Camino attracts all kinds, doesn’t it? 

The Tricky Descent

We started descending from the top, and the whole path was steep and full of small rocks—sometimes tricky to navigate, with a real risk of falling. We took it carefully and made it down safely.

Stories Along the Way

Along the way down, we came across Melissa who was from a small town in Illinois just across the river from St. Louis. Her story hit us hard: she’d started this journey before, but her niece had abruptly passed away and she had to fly home to attend to things. Now she was restarting her journey from Pamplona and walking just a few miles each day. But this morning had been horrible for her—she kept getting lost and couldn’t find the path markers to lead her out of the city. We helped her download an app with a trail guide, and set her on her way again.

A First for Me

Around this time, I started having foot pain on my right arch—probably the first real physical pain I’d experienced while walking the Camino. I took more breaks than usual, and after more than a few ibuprofen pills, the pain thankfully subsided albeit temporarily.

We stopped in the town of Mañeru and enjoyed a box of cherries grown in the region. Fresh, sweet, perfect.

An Unexpected Encounter

About 10 minutes from our destination, we passed the family from San Diego—going the other way. Surprised, we learned that their daughter had gotten a stomach bug. They had to take a taxi from Pamplona to Puente la Reina, and after dropping their bags at the hostel, decided to walk back to visit the cathedral of Santa Maria in Eunate. We appreciated their will to keep experiencing the journey even if it wasn’t how they expected.

Glamping on the Camino

We finally arrived at our accommodation, which looked like a very nice boutique hotel. We were assigned to the glamping area which was an interesting setup with walls but canvas ceilings to look like a tent. You could hear your neighbors very clearly, but the room had comfortable beds and real sheets. Luxury!

After nice showers, I headed to the supermarket to grab beers, snacks, and olives. We enjoyed these on the back patio, where we met Kathy.

Kathy’s Big Question

Kathy was the wife of Chris and mother to their son—they were doing a three-week trip covering half the Camino. She told us she’s an eye surgeon who runs her own private practice with 80 employees.

She was looking to this trip to help her decide something crucial: Is the stress of keeping a business really worth it?

Her husband Chris had retired a while ago and become a stay-at-home dad. I got the sense this trip was about more than just walking—it was about reassessing her whole life’s direction.

Dinner and Deep Conversations

Dinner brought amazing conversation with Ivan, Martina, Belinda, and Fernando—a doctor who’s half German and half Spanish. The discussion quickly turned substantial.

Fernando talked at length about why there’s such strong support for Palestine in Europe. “Europeans think what Israel is doing is genocide in Gaza,” he explained. “That’s why they’re very pro-Palestine.”

I’d been wondering about this—we’d seen so many Palestine flags in Pamplona, and people had spray-painted the Palestinian flag all over the place as we walked. Now it made sense.

We also discussed U.S. political policies and how they’re affecting Europe. It was an engaging, thoughtful conversation that went far beyond typical travel small talk. I appreciated that everyone separated politics from citizens. While they might not agree with U.S. politics, they didn’t hold it against the American people.

Belinda, who used to work in trauma recovery, shared insights from that work. Eye-opening and humbling—another reminder that everyone on this trail carries invisible burdens alongside their visible backpacks.

The Meal

For dinner, I had pork ribs, a full salad, pea soup, and chocolate cake for dessert. Ashley had the same but chose chicken for her entrée, which was also excellent.

As I went to bed that night in our canvas-topped room while listening to thunderstorms outside, I thought about all the conversations we’d had today. The surgeon questioning her life’s work. The wanderer who’d been to every Mexican state. The woman restarting her journey after losing her niece. The political tensions playing out even here, on this ancient pilgrimage route.

The Camino isn’t just a walk through the beautiful Spanish countryside. It’s a microcosm of the whole world—all of its beauty, pain, complexity, and hope compressed into this single path winding westward toward the sea.

Distance: Approximately 24 kilometers
Walking time: 6-7 hours
Elevation: Alto del Perdón (770m)
Temperature: Hot and getting hotter
Conversations: Profound