June 13, 2025, Day 8 on the Camino: Lorca to Estella

From Creaking Beds to Beautiful Cloisters

Last night was a true albergue experience. The metal beds creaked all night long. It was hot with only one small table fan providing relief. The shower had a broken showerhead and a beaten-up curtain. This was what we’d expected all our albergues to be like, but surprisingly, they’d been much nicer up until now.

Still, everyone staying there had a positive attitude, and we shared some great stories. And on the bright side, this was the only albergue we’d come across that had Epsom salt for soaking feet. We used it liberally, and it felt heavenly.

A Rocky Start

We started the morning with a very poor breakfast. The bread was solid as a rock. There was some jam and prepackaged muffins. All we managed was hot tea before heading out.

We walked through farmlands where wheat was being grown. For a solid 30 minutes, we could smell manure wafting across the fields. Despite this, it was still a pleasant walk through the countryside, and the morning remained cool.

The Two Pole Revolution

We’ve been using two walking poles each ever since leaving Pamplona, and both Ashley and I have concluded that having two poles is a bit of a game changer. It allows you to propel forward and definitely feels like it takes weight off your back and feet.

Using two poles in the beginning was a challenge, but about halfway from Pamplona we both figured out the rhythm. Now it’s starting to feel natural—a four-legged creature moving across the Spanish countryside.

Villatuerta: A Breakfast Miracle

We stopped in the town of Villatuerta and found a café. Boy, am I glad we stopped! They had some of the best tortilla yet and an amazing guava-filled pastry. We also got an espresso and a cappuccino—everything came to €6.80, and everything tasted spectacular.

We walked out with new energy coursing through us. Good food can change your entire day on the Camino.

Nuns and Abandoned Chapels

Our next stop was the Villatuerta church, where inside we found two nuns arranging flowers. It was peaceful and neat to see actual nuns working inside the cathedral.

We continued our hike and came across an abandoned cathedral—the Ermita de San Miguel, just before Estella. It was only about 200 feet off the path, so we took the detour.

Inside was very peaceful. People had left prayers, stones, notes, and flowers. The cathedral was surrounded by olive trees, which added to the serene setting. There’s something about these forgotten holy places that feels especially sacred—as if the prayers left behind still linger in the air.

We passed through farms where horses and goats grazed freely, then soon entered the town of Estella.

Exploring Estella Before Check-In

Since there was still about an hour before check-in at Agora Hostel, we decided to explore. First stop: Monasterio Santo Domingo, a former monastery founded in 1258 by King Teobaldo II of Navarre. Active service continued until 1809 when it suffered hardships due to the War of Independence. It was abandoned in 1839 and fell into ruin. It was redeveloped in 1981 as a retirement home. It had beautiful grounds and lovely views of the town.

We walked over the single-arch medieval bridge that crosses the River Ega. It had a bit of steepness to it, and we also went down to the sidewalk under the bridge to get a different perspective. Medieval engineering never ceases to amaze me.

With still some time to kill, we ducked into Iglesia de San Miguel, which had a beautiful stone entrance carved with scenes from the Bible and housed reliquaries of several past saints.

Agora Hostel: A Welcome Upgrade

Finally, it was time to check in. We were pleasantly surprised by the Agora Hostel—nice solid bunk beds and clean showers and bathrooms. What a difference from last night! After putting our bags down, we took a couple of hours to just relax and let our bodies recover.

An Evening of Art and Appetite

After resting, we visited Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa, which features a beautiful cloister—one of those spaces where architecture and spirituality merge into something transcendent.

Then it was time for sustenance. We started with wine at Parranda Wine Bar, savoring the local varieties. For food, we headed to Mundo for croquettes and a veggie burger with fries. Simple, delicious, satisfying.

We took a quick walk around the Plaza de los Fueros. The same cafés that had been empty just two hours ago were now hustling and bustling with locals enjoying the evening. Spanish life operates on its own beautiful rhythm—late dinners, lively plazas, the day extending well into the night.

Tomorrow’s Promise

As we headed to bed, I thought about tomorrow. A long day full of adventures awaited us, including—most intriguingly—free wine…for breakfast!

Only on the Camino would such a thing make perfect sense.

The creaking metal beds of Lorca felt like a distant memory now. We’d graduated from rock-hard bread and broken showerheads to beautiful cloisters and good wine. The Camino gives you both extremes, sometimes within the same 24 hours, teaching you to appreciate comfort without depending on it.

Two poles, one path, and infinite variations on the journey.

Tomorrow: free wine at breakfast. The Camino provides.

Distance: Approximately 21 kilometers
Walking time: 5-6 hours
Best tortilla: Villatuerta
Best discovery: The two walking poles
Tomorrow’s promise: Wine for breakfast