June 14, 2025, Day 9 on the Camino: Estella to Los Arcos
Wine Fountains, Lucky Timing, and Stories of Heartbreak and Hope
We set out at 7 AM for our longest day yet—28 kilometers stretching ahead of us. Our first stop was the town of Ayegui, where we had to wait about 10 minutes for the market to open. Apparently, there had been a fiesta the night before.
It was both interesting and funny to see young people with bloodshot red eyes just standing around, still drinking at 7:30 in the morning. The after-party was clearly ongoing.
After a short wait, the market opened. Ashley got orange juice and a pastry, and I got a cappuccino and a pastry. We spent 15-20 minutes enjoying our breakfast before moving on.
The first stop was a neat blacksmith and metalwork shop called La Forjade Ayegui (The Forge of Ayegui). The shop has been operating since 1960 and sells all kinds of unique pieces of metal artwork including Camino shells, candle holders, and ceiling lamps. I later learned that while I was browsing the shop, Ashley had secretly bought me a present for my birthday that was just days away 🙂
The Wine Fountain: Lucky Break
Soon we came across the legendary wine fountain—Fuente del Vino at Bodegas Irache. Sadly, it was closed. We took a few pictures, disappointed and ready to move on, but then something wonderful happened.
After just a minute or two, one of the employees came out and asked if the fountain was on. We said no. He went back and switched it on! Hallelujah!!
We couldn’t believe our luck! We’d only waited five minutes, and we knew there were people who’d passed by earlier and missed the opportunity entirely.
We talked about how luck is really just a summation of past events: we waited for the supermarket to open, we took time to eat breakfast slowly—and because of all that, we timed it perfectly for the wine fountain.
The wine was a little fizzy but still tasted good, and the price was definitely right (free!). It was a light wine, but after a couple of sips, I started feeling the effects. It was just a magical feeling to realize that we had just woken up and, because of the Camino, were able to enjoy wine for breakfast. A short step afterward, we looked at the monastery, took some photos, and were on our way.
Growing Stronger
As we walked, Ashley and I talked about just how strong we’ve become. We have no pain in our calves anymore. Our shoulders don’t hurt. It’s mind-blowing to realize how much we’ve adapted in only a week.
Not to sugarcoat it—we still feel tired when approaching our destination. Ashley’s toes still ache, and my arch still hurts. But things that used to hurt constantly at the end of each day have magically stopped hurting.
Our bodies are transforming, learning this new language of long-distance walking.
Spectacular Views and Sheep
After leaving the wine fountain, we started seeing spectacular views to our right—high mountains with vineyards on the foothills. Green everywhere, beautiful vistas all around. And no…it was not because we were still buzzed from the wine…well…maybe a little.
We stopped at a café a short while later for good orange juice and empanada pastry, enjoying the scene of sheep grazing on the hillside.
We reached the next town expecting to find the famous smoothies at the Oasis Trail Hostel, but unfortunately it didn’t open until 3 PM. While refilling our water bottles, the kid we’d seen earlier at the hostel—taking a gap year after high school—came up asking where the café was. We told him it was closed.
He said all he’d had that morning was an apple. We asked if he’d like one of our two bananas. He was very grateful and after accepting our offer said he’d definitely pass the favor forward.
These small acts of kindness—they’re what make the Camino more than just a walk.
The Oasis Food Truck
Seven kilometers before reaching Los Arcos, we were so glad to find a food truck called Oasis, run by a girl from Nashville and a guy from Canada. Yes! Of all the places, we ran into someone from Nashville which is the home state of Ashley! We got a slice of carrot cake to share, Ashley got a Coke, and I got a Radler (beer mixed with lemonade).
Sitting in the shade, enjoying the fresh air—it was perfect.
During the afternoon section, Ashley laughed about how she’d worried about rain instead of sun. The heat was intense.
Interesting Encounters
We met several fascinating people today:
A guy from Parma, Italy, who talked about the whole process of making authentic Parmesan cheese—how long it takes, how expensive it is, how artificial versions are in other countries. He recommended wines from the boot heel region of Italy and shared about his stay at a church albergue where you could ring the church bell. He’d met a volunteer there who’d lost half his face to cancer but still served pilgrims with joy. In the evening, everyone gathered in a meditation room to share why they were doing this trip.
We used our little umbrellas as shade for a good three hours, and we couldn’t be more thankful we’d brought them. The sun was extremely hot, and just using the umbrella provided almost 100% improvement in our experience.
Los Arcos: A Pleasant Surprise
The last seven or eight kilometers were very hot but flat, and we were both surprised how quickly we reached our hostel. Casa Alberola was a pleasant building from 1888. Our upper bunk room had only four beds, and the tiles looked really cool.
We did laundry, hung up our clothes, showered, dressed, and headed toward the cathedral. Since it didn’t open until 5:30, we sat down for sangria and beer.
Two other girls joined us—one from Wisconsin, one from South Africa. The South African girl was from Johannesburg. She shared that she’d broken off her engagement in January and didn’t know what she was doing with her life. She’d left the job she’d worked at for four years because she didn’t like it. Her next job starts in August. The Camino was her bridge between old life and new.
The girl from Wisconsin said her two brothers had done the trip and highly recommended it, which is why she was here.
Since we had an hour before dinner, we checked out the Church of Santa María de Los Arcos. It was one of the best yet, with a cloister. They’d recently “cleaned” a Santa María figure in Madrid, and it was no longer black. The cloister wasn’t as good as the one in Estella—it had no roses—but it still provided wonderful views.
Dinner at Abuela: The Heart of the Camino
We headed to dinner at Restaurante Abuela—10 euros for the pilgrim menu. Our table was full of stories:
- Two couples from France
- One guy from Ireland
- One guy from Barcelona
- One guy from Germany
The Barcelona man was doing the Camino for his wife, who had passed away in February. They’d been married for 36 years.
The German man was walking because he’d been suffering from depression for many years. He had a wife and two daughters waiting at home.
The dinner itself was wonderful: a good salad with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, olives, and carrots. The main course was lentil soup with sausage—unlimited servings. Wine was shared among the table.
But the food was secondary. The conversations were what filled us. It was a mix of emotions while listening and talking to everyone on the table…sadness, laughter, joy, and everything else.
Reflection
As I lay in bed that night, I thought about the stories we’d heard: the widower walking for his wife of 36 years, the German man fighting depression, the South African woman rebuilding her life after a broken engagement, the church volunteer who’d lost half his face to cancer but still served with joy.
The Camino attracts the broken and the seeking, the grieving and the celebrating. We walk together, strangers becoming companions, sharing wine from fountains and stories over soup.
We started the day with free wine and bloodshot fiesta survivors. We ended it with lentil soup and profound human connection.
That’s the Camino in a single day.
Distance: 28 kilometers
Walking time: 7-8 hours
Free wine consumed: Several cups…and then some
Umbrellas deployed: For 3 hours
Stories that will stay with me: Too many to count
